What makes a jewel tone
Jewel tones are deep, saturated colours named after gemstones: emerald, sapphire, amethyst, ruby. They combine a dark value with strong colour, and that combination is what makes them feel rich and luxurious. A colour that is merely dark (like navy or brown) or merely bright (like lemon yellow) isn't quite a jewel tone.
Darken without dulling
The challenge with jewel tones is making a colour darker without losing its intensity. Black and complements both dull a colour as they darken it. Instead, darken with a darker neighbour on the wheel: deepen a green with blue, a red with violet, a violet with blue. Avoid yellow in purples and blues; it dulls them towards brown.
Shortcut tubes
Phthalo Green, Dioxazine Purple and Quinacridone Magenta are among the most intense dark pigments you can buy, and each makes jewel tones almost straight from the tube. Add them to your palette below to see where they simplify the recipes.
Using jewel tones
- They read best against neutrals or dark backgrounds. Put them next to each other and they compete.
- Glazing them thinly over a light ground makes them glow like stained glass.
- A white highlight next to a jewel tone makes it look even deeper.